Onward and Upward

Then lobster, a slash of red and white claw meat in a lobster bordelaise so deeply flavored as to recall both veal stock and opium smoke, with cabbage to bind them together

-

Thanks to Sam Sifton for letting me know that Tom Colicchio’s lobster recalls the flavor of opium smoke. Really gives me a good reference point there. 

Restaurant Review - Dining at Colicchio and Sons - NYTimes.com